Gunkholing

GUNKHOLING, according to Wikipedia is a boating term referring to a type of cruising in shallow or shoal water, meandering from place to place, spending the nights in coves. The term refers to the gunk, or mud, typical of the creeks, coves, marshes, sloughs, and rivers that are referred to as gunkholes.

The Panama Canal shares its history with the Americans and the French, who originated the plan. One of the last reminders of this is the light marking the breakwater on the Caribbean side of the Canal Zone just outside of Shelter Bay Marina. It was placed there by the French and designed by Eiffel the same guy who designed the famous tower. The molds and concrete structures in the picture are used to create and reinforce the break water.

The good news is the outboard engine was repaired and returned as promised. The folks at Sukimotors in Panama City really came through for us. We waited a couple more days and the weather cleared as forecasted so we cast off and headed to the Bocas Del Toro Archipelago. It’s about 130miles west of the canal zone and an overnight passage for us.

Our first stop in the archipelago was Bluefield Lagoon. Its a long bay with several spots to anchor. The local residents must watch as we make the entrance and then head right out to meet us in their dugout canoes before we’ve even got the anchor down. Some have fish or bread they want to sell or trade and some will offer to “guide” you on the walk to a waterfall. Unfortunately several just wanted us to give them stuff. Food, clothing, candy, sodas etc. Some were very persistent! Early evening, just as it was getting dark we had one guy that was a straight up fake and attempted shakedown. He approached in an old dugout canoe, claimed to represent some government organization and “requested” a $10 per person “permit fee.” We refused to pay and he eventually left. Legitimate officials will be in uniform and most importantly will issue receipts.

We have no issue with those seeking to trade and or sell. We struggle internally with the ones simply asking for stuff. While our standard of living is vastly different we wonder what lessons the children are learning when they watch their parents begging.

Once you arrive in the islands, navigation can be tricky around the reefs and mangroves. We try to travel at midday when the sun is high and objects in the water are easier to see.

There are so many islands, cays, reefs and bays that we are literally spending a night in one then traveling 3 to 10 miles to the next. Explore the bay by dinghy, swim, repeat. Pretty much the definition of gunkholing.

While it sounds like fun, and for the most part it is, there is always maintenance work. In this case the ground wire for the horn and deck lights corroded through. A trip halfway up the mast was necessary to fix it. We’ve also managed to break a filter on our water maker and dump about 60 gallons of fresh water into our bilge. The always “fun” job of the duckbill valve cleaning on the head plumbing was needed as well. As the saying goes “cruising is just fixing things in different locations”

We have been surprised by the lack of fish around the reefs and wildlife in the mangroves. We encountered far more animals in the other parts of Central America we visited.

We have seen several “Eco Resorts” built right over the water.

We anchored near Red Frog Marina and visited friends staying there. The marina is part of a very large resort and development. (Villas starting at $580,000 UDS. Condos for bit less. In case you are interested). We walked around the area and saw the namesake frog, beach and pool bar.

Bocas Town is the “major” city here. There is an airport so most of the tourists arrive here and if they do not stay at one of the many small hotels in town, they will be water taxied to resorts on the islands. We anchored off the town and took the dinghy into Daniel’s dock. For 2 bucks a day he’ll let you use his dock and watch your dinghy while you explore the town. He also knows where you can get just about anything you might need for the boat. If it’s not in town, he knows how to get it shipped.

So far, we have only found a couple of sandy beaches. Starfish Beach, located about 7 miles up the coast from Bocas Town, is a very nice beach and popular tourist attraction. During the day Pangas bring tourists to swim, paraglide, water ski and enjoy food and drinks from the beachside vendors. They head back about 4 in the afternoon and things settle down after that.

We continue to bounce from one spot to another. Gunkholing our way through the islands.